Banana Republic’s Menswear Is Suddenly Really Good
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Earlier this spring, I was idly browsing the new-arrivals sections of various brands’ websites to get a sense of what was coming. Everything was as expected, just lighter and brighter for the warming weather. But clicking around Banana Republic felt like falling through the ice. I had to double-check the URL and refresh the page twice to confirm that I was in the right place.
Instead of the drab, stretchy pants and staid shirts in slim cuts I was expecting, I found a wide array of boxy shirts cut from natural materials dyed in jewel tones, with bold patterns and intricate embroidery. There were flowy, oversize jackets with adventurous pocket layouts — some withfireman clasps— that looked like they were torn from a Stone Island catalogue. Pants and shorts had wide, loose fits, some withbarrel legs, others with pleats, and one even had atwisted inseam. Taking it all in, I couldn’t help but wonder: Hadthe Gapaissancefinally arrived at Banana? I went to the Soho flagship to see for myself.
The results actually feltnicerin person than I expected. The fabrics were substantial and smooth — the type that wears in over time rather than wears out. The stitching was tight and even, and I didn’t find a single loose thread among the nearly 40 pieces I tried on. And, at least on the outerwear, every button wasthread-shankedfor extra durability. Overall, the quality felt closer to that of upmarket brands like Todd Snyder and Noah than fellow mall brands like J. Crew and Abercrombie & Fitch.
This type of sea change is often associated with the arrival of a blue-chip creative director, but I was surprised to learn that Zac Posen’s appointment at Banana Republic’s parent company, Gap Inc., had little to do with it. The company had already realized that its vintage pieces were reselling at a premium, so it startedsourcing its own vintage piecesto sell in theArchive collection, which launched last September. Meanwhile, its designers’ early attempts at spelunking through its archives for reissues were selling well, and there was already a broader initiative to source more natural-fiber fabrics milled in Europe and India. The new and acclaimedExplorers Club capsuleis the culmination of these efforts, but the whole spring-summer lineup is full of compelling revivals. Not everything is available in store, but I tried what I could and loved almost all of it. (Unless otherwise noted, all tops are a medium and all bottoms are a 31 waist.)
The jackets are the highlight
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This easy-wearing mackintosh coat is a reissue of an archival design, revived in sturdier, modern materials dyed in saturated colors. The raglan sleeve and dropped shoulder seam give it a relaxed but not oversize fit. It easily accommodated the thick twill overshirt I was wearing, with plenty of room for a chunky sweater during colder months. The water-resistant cotton-nylon fabric has the weather protection, heft, and drape of waxed canvas but feels more refined and breathable.
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This unlined, crinkled nylon parka is based on a design from the ’90s. Its combination of thoughtfully designed pockets, relaxed fit, and hefty, iridescent fabric gives it a distinctly Stone Island feel in 2026. It feels silky, not plasticky, against bare skin and has a packable hood (zipped into the collar) and water-resistant treatment to shrug off light rain.
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This vintage-inspired travel jacket from the Explorers Club capsule is made from a lighter-weight blend of cotton, nylon, and linen and would be a nice outer layer for summer travel. The visible bungee adjusters are a nice design detail reminiscent of the parkasLiam Gallagher woreduring last year’s Oasis reunion tour.
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The lightly faded, lifeguard red of this jacket gives it a beachy feel. The cotton-nylon outer fabric is light and breathable, and it’s lined with a mix of soft cotton and silky cotton-viscose fabrics for more comfort.
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This field jacket is sewn from a heavy, loosely woven linen canvas that gives it the luxurious drape and natural hand of an expensive linen suit. It’s unlined for extra breathability.
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A slightly cropped, sturdily made blouson thatwill make you appear taller.
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Banana Republic has long been known for its suede and leather outerwear, and this new version of its popular suede trucker shows why. The color is deep and consistent and the material is soft and sturdy, but above all, it has room in all the right places to keep it from squeezing all the wrong ones. I typically have to size up in leather tops, or wear them unbuttoned, but this medium fit perfectly.
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This limited-edition bomber is inspired by, you guessed it, an archival piece. But BR has updated the fit with a more modern, relaxed cut and elastic hem. Only 50 were produced.
The bold swings are paying off
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The aforementionedExplorers Clubcapsule is the only time in recent history I can think of when anyone in the menswear world has shared something Banana Republic did, besides posting sales alerts on cashmere sweaters. This vintage-washed multi-pocket photographer’s vest from the 1980s is one of the collection’s heroes. The quilted lining makes it much heavier than it looks in the online photos, and I think it would be too hot for summer travels.
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The cotton-hemp overshirt beneath it is a reissue from 1988 and is solidly made, but theregular twill overshirtcosts $50 less and is of similar quality. Love the ticking, though.
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They didn’t have the psychedelicspace-dyed crochet veston hand, but this cotton-linen knit mesh tank was still pretty out there — and very well made.
Similar to smaller brands like 18 East and Corridor, the design team is taking full advantage of their Indian manufacturing partners’ dyeing, printing, and embroidery prowess.
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Some more online-only bold swings I couldn’t try on
The bottoms are working
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The double-pleated shorts I’m wearing throughout were one of my favorites from the collection. They’re originally from the ’90s, and I like that they’re neither Bermudas nor short shorts.
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These pull-on pants are made of a thicker linen than most, so they don’t instantly wrinkle the first time you try them on. They have a comfortable, extra-wide drawstring waistband, so I’d recommend sizing up for a roomier fit.
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These carpenter-inspired loose jeans have distinctive squarish rear pockets and a convincing fade. The material felt thin but not cheap — perfect for summer.
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The lightweight version is both lighter and looser, veering into trendy territory. The grayish blue was compelling, though.
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If you prefer slim, stretchy jeans, the Luxe Traveler fabric looks convincingly like real denim.
The classics are better than ever
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The Luxury Touch T-shirt lives up to its name. The cotton-jersey fabric is soft on the inside and is polished on the outside. It’s perfect for layering under a sweater or overshirt. It’s also available with a V-neck if you prefer.
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Compared to the $50 T-shirt, a $70 polo made from thicker material feels like a better value and is available in more than a dozen colors. It works well on its own or as a layer beneath a suit jacket.
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This crewneck sweater feels softer than the sub-$150 recommendations in ourguide to men’s cashmere sweaters. It’s as soft as any sweater I’ve tested and is not as fuzzy as cheaper sweaters, which may pill more easily with time. It’s a solid value at full price, and even better if you can get it on sale, which it often is.
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I was astonished to find a fabric tag inside this $450 suit jacket from Vitale Barberis Canonico — one of Italy’s oldest and most renowned mills. The matching pants are $230, which means you can buy the entire suit for less than J.Crew charges fora blazer made from the same material. The shade of blue is a bit too bright to be theonly navy suit you own, but it’s perfect for summer-wedding season.
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I’m not one for “fun” shirts, but I recently underwent a Korean color analysis that suggested I should wear more jewel tones. The lightweight cotton fabric feels nice and airy and softer than linen and is not at all see-through.
And so are the shoes and accessories
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If I’d known about these Portuguese-made, closed-toe fisherman sandals beforemy last Picky Guy column, I would’ve added them in. I love sandals but hate exposing my toes.
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The suede version shows some toe, but is also well made.
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These nubuck clogs are a nice alternative to Birkenstock Bostons for people who don’t need or want a ton of arch support.
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These flexible loafers, made from supersoft leather, were astonishingly comfortable out of the box, and I’m not surprised to see they’re almost sold out in some colors. They make a great first impression and feel like they’d last a while.
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The belt I’m wearing throughout was an unexpected highlight. The chunky woven pattern isn’t as common as the more popular braided version and adds an interesting texture to an outfit.
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I have an older, oiled leather version of this western belt that I love.
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Who wouldn’t want a sunny-yellow tote? It’s much brighter in person.
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